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How to Grow Zucchini

By Annie

Learn how to grow zucchini in your vegetable garden or in raised beds.

The Zucchini plant is very easy to grow and you only need to plant a couple of zucchinis in your garden to enjoy a large harvest. They just keep on growing more and more zucchinis all season long.

They are very prolific, so just a few plants are all you will need. Zucchinis are a versatile vegetable to grow to use in salads and side dishes. Grilled Zucchini is delicious.

Healthy Zucchini plant growing in a garden.
Here’s a healthy Zucchini plant growing and setting flowers.

Here are all our best tips on how to grow zucchini in raised beds, vegetables gardens and in pots and containers.

Why You Should Grow Zucchini

Zucchini is more of a summer squash and a heat loving plant – I don’t put my zucchini plants into the garden until the weather warms up. Usually this means, they don’t put in the garden until early June here in the north.

Grow a couple of Zucchini plants this year - it yields a lot. How to grow Zucchini, when to harvest Zucchini and what to do with big Zucchini. #gardening #vegetablegardening #zucchini
Grow a couple of Zucchini plants this year – it yields a lot. This guide explains how to grow Zucchini, when to harvest it and what to do with big Zucchini.

 

We love zucchini loaf and I make lots of it during the winter. You can also make your own homemade dill pickles! Here’s how I grow and harvest zucchini.

How to Grow Zucchini

Like a lot of the other vegetables, I sow Zucchini seeds in the house. Since we live in the North, we cannot seed a lot of vegetables right into the garden. The Zucchini seedlings stay in the house under growing lights until the nights warm up a bit and I feel more confident about planting them outside.

This can also help to prevent losing young tender zucchini to pests like squash vine borers (moth larvae), powdery mildew, bacterial wilt, or striped cucumber beetles. Neem oil can be used to prevent insects from laying eggs on the inside stem of the plant.

Also be aware that disease can spread quickly among zucchini leaves, so water the soil under the plants as opposed to the leaves or vines to prevent blossom-end rot.

Although we grow our plants in the vegetable garden, you can also use pots or containers. Plant them in a location where they will get full sun, at least 6 – 8 hours a day. 

As for variety, we usually grow Black Beauty straightneck, which is one of the bush types. It grows well here for us and we tend to stick with what has grown well in past seasons. Growing a bush type works very well in small spaces!

There are also several crookneck heirloom varieties you can grow.

 

When to Plant Zucchini

zucchini in seedling cups ready to be planted in garden
Here’s what the zucchini looks like when it’s ready to be transplanted to the soil.

You can see that some of the Zucchini is already blooming – it is time to get these squash plants in the ground.

Actually it is past the ideal growing season, but I simply cannot put these in the ground until it is warmer outside and the danger of frost has passed.

Since we get can get frost in July, it’s hard to know the last frost date. Because of that, we use row covers for the first few weeks, just in case the weather dips low again. More on this later.

This year I only planted 6. Zucchini is very prolific – a plant or two should be enough for a family. We usually grow about 20 of these plants as we feed a lot of them to the pigs and chickens. They love it!

Since we aren’t doing pigs this year, I reduced the amount of plants we needed.

zucchini with nice root ball exposed before being plantecd
Here’s a zucchini with nice root ball exposed before being planted.

Transplanting Zucchini Plants

Look at the good root system on this Zucchini – it’s awesome. The bigger the root system, the better. The plant will have a much better chance of success when it is transplanted into the garden.

You can stake each plant or train them against a trellis, but I don’t even bother to do that. The plants stay mostly upright, and since they take much less space in the garden beds than squash does, I can get all the plants we need in one row (or less) of garden space.

zucchini right after transplanting into garden row
You only need to plant a few zucchini plants in order to yield a bountiful harvest.

I plant them in holes about one foot apart. Zucchini is a heavy feeder when it comes to nutrients, so if you are still working on improving your soil, add a shovelful of well composted manure or other types of compost or organic matter to each hole. They love and need the nitrogen.

Another way to account for this is to plant zucchini near helpful companion plants like beans or peas, or flowers like dahlias or catmint for better pollination.

When I first plant them out, each evening I go out and cover the row with Remay cloth. Remay adds a few degrees of frost protection, which will increase the chances of all the plants getting settled and starting to grow.

I’ll keep putting on and taking off the Remay cloth until mid-June or whenever the weather warms up. You could actually just leave the Remay on there all the time, except for when the plants are flowering.

 

When to Pick Zucchini

Zucchini produce both male and female flowers, and both are necessary to pollinate together and form zucchini fruits. As a self-pollinator it shouldn’t need much help, but if you find your zucchini isn’t fruiting, you can use a cotton swab to manually brush pollen from a male flower onto the stigma of a female zucchini flower to help them along.

If you’ve got lots of bees around, you probably won’t have to worry about this! You can also eat male zucchini flowers once they’ve done their pollination.

An important thing to remember about growing Zucchini is, once it starts fruiting, the plants need to be checked on pretty much daily. What started out as a tiny squash two days ago, could today be perfect for picking and eating!

Zucchini grows very quickly and before long, you will discover squash the size of small baseball bats. These large ones, while not the best for eating, can be used for making loaves and other zucchini baking recipes. The best flavor tends to come from the younger and more tender fruits.

Zucchini likes a good amount of water – other than water and frost protection, they don’t need much assistance. Using a mulch around the base of the plants is a good way to retain moisture.

Although you can water with an overhead sprinkler (we do), a lot of people prefer to use a soaker hose or some other type of drip irrigation. Either way, these plants like plenty of water – we soak ours every day in the summer and check the soil moisture regularly.

a row of home grown zucchini.
Look how beautiful these home grown zucchini are!

How to Harvest Zucchini

We pick Zucchinis by just carefully twisting the fruit so the stem will break. You can use a pair of heavier scissors if you like. The plants will keep producing as long as you keep picking. Small Zucchini squash with the blossoms still attached are a big hit at the Farmer’s Market.

Zucchini can also be cut with a sharp knife. In the picture above, the best Zucchini for eating at dinner time are the ones in the middle of the picture.

The larger ones I peel and then grate them. Putting them in 2 cups measured into a Ziplock bag, these are perfect for making Zucchini loaf. Pop the bags in the freezer and you’ll be all set.

You can also dehydrate Zucchini to make chips. Just slice thin and dry them, either in a dehydrator or in the sun with a layer of cheesecloth on top, to keep the bugs off. Make sure you bring them in at night, then put them back out in the morning.

Here's how to grow Zucchini. When to harvest Zucchini. How to save Zucchini seed. #gardening #zucchini #DIYgarden #vegetablegardening
This guide is all you need to learn about growing, caring for, and harvesting zucchini!

How to Save Zucchini Seed

Zucchini is very easy to harvest seed from. You need to use Heirloom Zucchini Seed when planting. When you harvest zucchini, just scoop out the seeds and dry them. Then keep them in an envelope or plastic baggy and store them in a cold dark place.

The following year, just plant those seeds and you’ll never have to buy Zucchini seeds again. And if you have more seed than you will need, why not enjoy some Roasted Zucchini seeds? They are delicious.

Now, I am heading out to the Garden. I need to plant more cabbages, cauliflower and broccoli, as well as seeding more beets. Then I need to get more Potato plants in. Want to learn how to plant potatoes?

 

Grow Zucchini this year in your vegetable garden!

 

 

 

originally published 2011; latest update March 2026.

Filed Under: Grow Your Own Vegetables Tagged With: Zuccini

How to Grow Rhubarb

By Annie

Rhubarb is a delicious perennial vegetable. Learn how to grow Rhubarb in your backyard!

Rhubarb is one of the first plants we see here in early spring. It’s very easy to grow Rhubarb and it is a hardy perennial, meaning that you plant it once and it will come up year after year.

Many people get 20 years worth of harvest off of a single rhubarb plant. That is a great return.

Use rhubarb in all kinds of recipes, from jams to crumbles, from sauces to strawberry rhubarb pie, stewed or added to homemade juices or sodas.

Rhubarb is very healthy for our diets, a it has high levels of potassium and is a great source of dietary fiber. We love the tartness and flavor of fresh rhubarb and enjoy it each spring.

Huge Rhubarb plant with text overlay reading How to Grow Rhubarb.
Save these Rhubarb tips to your Gardening board.

 

How to Grow Rhubarb

Rhubarb grows throughout Canada and many parts of the cooler United States. It likes to grow in full sun, but it can certainly tolerate some shade as well. 

Rhubarb will grow in any of the cooler gardening zones throughout Canada and the US.

You can plant the Rhubarb roots in Spring or Fall, making sure to plant them several feet apart. Rhubarb is a heavy feeder, which means it loves to grow in healthy organic matter. When you dig your plant hole, add plenty of compost or well-rotted manure for fertilization.

Then every Spring, top dress around the plant with more compost. Rhubarb also likes a planting spot with good drainage; if you are planting in clay soil, add some sand as well as the compost.

The plants get big and prolific, so make sure you keep that in mind when you are planting.

If you can’t find someone with enough to share, you can order Rhubarb seeds or buy Rhubarb seedlings at a nursery.

 

Rhubarb plants emerging from the soil and snow in early spring
Rhubarb plants emerging from the soil and snow in early spring

By mid-April our Rhubarb crowns are already poking the buds out of the ground. Rhubarb loves to live in climates where there is a good freeze each Winter.

Buy 2 or 3 year old roots from the garden center or by mail order, or better yet, get some from a fellow gardener. Sometimes you can get third year roots, too which is great because you can get larger harvests faster.

At some point, everyone has enough Rhubarb in their gardens and are willing to share their bounty.

rhubarb plants growing in a garden bed
Rhubarb plants growing in our garden bed.

Pests attracted to Rhubarb

Here in the north, we don’t have much a problem with pests and our Rhubarb. However, aphids, slugs and beetles can be a problem in warmer garden zones. 

Remember though that pest damage may be done to the leaves, but the only edible portion are the stems. So don’t worry too much about leaf damage.

Harvesting Rhubarb

If you plant it in the Spring, don’t pick any stalks the first year. Wait until the second year. Let the plant and its roots grow.

You will be doubly rewarded the following year. If you plant it in the Fall, you can lightly pick it the following Spring.

Make sure you never pick a Rhubarb plant clean.

Leave a few leaf stalks on the plant, the plant needs this for new growth for the following year.

I leave at least six stalks; it would be better to leave a few more than that.

 

Pick the rhubarb stalks then lay the leaves down to use as mulch.
Pick the rhubarb stalks then lay the leaves down to use as mulch.

Keep in mind that the stalks are the only part of the plant you use. The leaves and the roots are poisonous, not only to humans, but also to animals.

The rhubarb leaves contain high levels of oxalic acid, which can cause health problems. Only the stalks can be eaten.

Store rhubarb stocks in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for later use.

Mulching Rhubarb Plants

Use those large rhubarb leaves as a mulch for around the base of your Rhubarb plants. They are perfectly fine for that purpose.

Weed the area first, then harvest Rhubarb, cutting off the leaves and laying them down to smother any more weeds from coming up.

Straw or leaves also make good rhubarb mulch.

rhubarb stalks in a metal pail freshly harvested
A harvest of tender Rhubarb stalks.

Pick your Rhubarb by twisting and snapping the stalks. The bigger the stalk, the better the harvest, so leave any small stalks on the plant.

At some point during the growing season, your Rhubarb will send up a thick flower stalk or a few flower stalks.

Be sure to cut these down using a sharp knife as soon as you see it. This is one of the most important things when you grow Rhubarb.

You don’t ever want Rhubarb to go to seed; you want your plant to keep putting its energy into making new stalks.

 

center flower stalk of the Rhubarb plant
Be sure to cut out that flowering stalk! This will help your plant grow.

Dividing Rhubarb Plants

When your plants are nice and large (maybe after 3 or 4 years) you can propagate and get new plants. Want more Rhubarb plants?

Grow rhubarb by taking a sharp spade and cleaning slice your plant in half or thirds.

Then, dig up the pieces and plant them in a new fertile hole. Dig in lots of well composted manure before you plant so you will have vigorous plants.

Water really well and if it is hot out, water it several times a day for the first three or four days.

Before you know it, you will have enough Rhubarb to feed your family and then you can start giving your own plants away.

 

Diced rhubarb ready to be frozen in bags
Diced Rhubarb in premeasured bags makes it easy for baking later!

Preserving Rhubarb

To preserve Rhubarb, you don’t even have to blanch it before popping it in the freezer.

It can’t get much easier to provide your family with tasty Rhubarb all year long, can it?

I like to bag mine up in 4 cup measures, as that is what is generally called for when it comes to pies.

 

Making a Rhubarb pie
Rhubarb and Blueberry Pie coming right up!

 

You could freeze it in 2 cup batches and make a blended pie with berries making up the other half.

Pick a sweet berry, so that you won’t have to add much (if any) sugar. Paired with Strawberries and topped with ice cream is the perfect choice! But sometimes we use Raspberries or Saskatoon berries.

Canning Rhubarb

I don’t can our Rhubarb, but it can certainly be done. Use a boiling water bath canner. You have to add a fair bit of sugar, about 3/4 cup to 1 quart of Rhubarb.

Mix together well and put some of the cooking liquid into each jar. Process for 20 minutes.

If you want to learn about canning, here is the process of how I can using a water bath canner.

We often make a batch of Rhubarb wine with our harvest. Want to try it? Read how to create your own Rhubarb Wine!

Here are 8 Great Ways to use Rhubarb! Different Rhubarb recipes for you to try. From how to cook Rhubarb to stewing Rhubarb to Rhubarb ice cream and more.

 

Rhubarb growing and another photo of rhubarb stalks cut in small pieces.

 

 

Take a look at this book for more than 200 recipes using rhubarb.

 

Make this the year you start to grow Rhubarb!

Once planted, you will be able to eat Rhubarb every year!

 

Growing Rhubarb plant in late Spring.

 

 

originally published 2011; latest update April 2025

Filed Under: Grow Your Own Vegetables Tagged With: perennials, Rhubarb, vegetables

Containers for Seed Starting

By Annie

With these ideas for homemade Containers for Seed Starting, you’ll save money and the environment by recycling common household items!

tables of seedlings growing inside under lights.
The best seed doesn’t need an advanced nursery or special seed trays to grow properly. Learn how to recycle household containers to start seeds!

It won’t be long until I can start planting the first seeds of the year. I can’t wait – I always get itchy to get my hands in some dirt. I begin to dream of being in the garden, working the soil and being in the sun. For now I have to content myself with starting seeds indoors.

Part of the process is getting my hands on containers for seed starting.

What Containers to Use for Seed Starting

Once you start looking around, you may be surprised at how many used containers you can recycle into seedling germination pots.

Get creative – the idea is to reuse and recycle! Why buy seedling trays if you really don’t need to?

Containers for seed starting are growing seeds on a table under light.
Sow seeds in containers until their root systems are large enough to transplant to an outdoor garden or larger pot.

I save any type of container I think I’ll be able to use for seeding. Just some examples are cartons from coffee cream (great for tomato seedlings) and wide squat canned vegetable containers.

Also the wonderful tall containers that hold the malt we use for making beer. When I get ready for seeding, I punch drainage holes in the bottoms to prevent excess moisture–3 holes per container will do.

Recycled seed starting pots in plastic trays on a windowsill.
Sow seeds in even simple plastic or styrofoam cups to save money!

Years ago, I bought several packs of Styrofoam cups. I know, not very environmentally minded of me.

BUT since I am very careful with handling them, I can reuse these as well. I still have some from the first year we moved up here and they are still going strong.

Free seedling starter containers made from simple cardboard trays.
Cell trays not required! You can use large cardboard trays or plastic trays instead.

Also, whenever we hit a Costco or other big box stores and buy things in bulk, I save the cardboard trays – usually they have plastic wrapped around the outside. I don’t pull off the plastic as it adds another layer of protection during watering. I’ll keep seedling pots in these trays until I can move the plants out to the garden.

The trays are really strong, especially with the plastic on. We keep every Styrofoam tray we can get our hands on too. They are handy for putting seedling plants in our windowsills. You can also use heat mats for faster germination.

Starting seeds in repurposed household containers on a counter with lights.
Before throwing empty containers in the recycling bin, wipe them out with paper towels and repurpose them as seed starting containers!

If you aren’t doing it already, save every type of container you can find, as well as other household items that may be able to hold seeds. I used to use those little seedling containers (the ones with 4 or 6 cells), but have moved away from them.

Although they are good when first sowing seed, because they are so small, I end up having to transplant them. This is something I avoid if I can. I don’t mind transplanting once but don’t like having to do it more than that.

I’ll find someone to pass them along to or just get rid of them. I don’t like using them. Using the styrofoam cups works the best for me – I seed them right in the cups.

Many vegetables don’t need to be transplanted again until I am ready to pop them into the garden. Exceptions? Tomatoes!

Easy is best! Why create extra work for yourself? Reusing your pots and trays is cheap, cheap, cheap. There is no point in spending lots of money on those trays with the cell packs and covers.

For every move you make planning and starting your veggie garden, think about it. Is there a way to use free materials, or reuse something you already have?

How to Use Homemade Containers for Seed Starting

I seed the cups in my potting room, then move them into my seedling room, where Graham has hung lights. They stay in here until they are up and doing well.

To give your seed starter an extra boost, you can also use some peat moss, compost, or eggshells.

Then I move them upstairs into the living room in front of the big windows. By the time mid-May rolls around, the living room is filled with plants. I usually still have a full seedling room downstairs as well with tomatoes, peppers, herbs, and more.

For the hardier seedlings, I can put them in our unheated Greenhouse. Depending on the nighttime temperature, I can cover these with Remay cloth and remove it in the morning.

 

More Ideas for Seed Containers

  • Yogurt cups or other yogurt containers
  • Toilet paper rolls/toilet paper tubes
  • A milk jug
  • Plastic trays
  • Cardboard egg cartons
  • Finished candles (would have to be emptied first)
  • Butter containers
  • Paper bowls

 

More Helpful Posts

  • Thinking of getting a Greenhouse? Read about how we were able to build a greenhouse for less than $200.
  • Growing lots of herbs? Learn how to preserve basil for fresh and delicious flavors all year round.
  • If you want to grow Raspberries, here’s one of the MOST important things you need to do!
  • Looking for info specifically on growing peppers? Check out this post explaining how big a container peppers need to grow.
  • And if you’ve always wanted to learn how to make your own seedling pots, check out this post from Dovid Domoney!

 

Graphic showing seedlings growing in recycled containers.
You can easily turn lots of empty containers into as many seed starters as you want according to personal preference.

 

 

published 2012, latest update Sept 2024

Filed Under: Grow Your Own Vegetables, Starting Seeds

Make A Personalized Seed Starting Schedule

By Annie

At this time of year, my mind starts to fixate on seeds for the upcoming garden. Not that I can do anything about it; it is way too early for me to get any seedlings started indoors.

I do, however, check my seed starting schedule to see when I can get those first seeds started.

 

Seed starting schedule hand written in a lined book.

 

Sometimes I will feed my urge and start some perennial flower seeds and that helps a bit. But really it is veggie seeds I want to start planting. I am always itching to get some salad greens going.

 

The very best posts for 2017 from Country Living in a Cariboo Valley #homesteading #farm #selfsufficiency

 

 

But it’s definitely still winter here in the Cariboo. We usually have several feet of snow – the garden soil is resting for a while longer. That snow acts as a great insulator. 

 

Make your own zone specific seed starting schedule.

 

Your Elevation is Important to your Seed Starting Schedule

A really important factor in when you should be starting your seedlings is your elevation. Most people do not take into consideration the importance of the elevation you are gardening at.

Higher elevations can mean later harvest dates and the possibility of earlier frosts.

We’re at 2800 feet elevation here and often can’t even get into the garden until the early weeks of May. In drier years, we might be able to get root crops planted in late April.

Root crops include vegetables like potatoes, beets, carrots, turnips…the list goes on. These root crops can go in the garden just as soon as you can work the soil.

It doesn’t matter if the weather turns cold after they are planted, they will be fine.

 

If you’re not sure of your elevation, you won’t really know how long your growing season is.

 

You need to know the length of your growing season. Talk to gardening neighbors and ask for gardening tips.

You can learn a lot about local weather conditions and the micro climates in your garden.

If you are new to gardening in the North, you may not know how difficult it can be to grown certain kinds of vegetables.

I had no idea before we moved here that it is VERY hard for us to grow corn outside of the greenhouse. Some veggies are definitely more heat loving than others.

Getting these heat lovers (peppers, tomatoes, squash) started too soon can mean leggy plants or even flower buds forming in the house.

Colder winter climates mean later starts in the garden and you have to adjust accordingly. Don’t forget to take cool nights into consideration.

If you have extreme temperature swings (night and day) take extra precautions if you need to.

Remay cloth or a small hoop house may be a great help in protecting those heat loving vegetables. They can extend the growing season by at least one month on either end.

 

The greenhouse in early Spring.

 

If you are thinking of something larger, read about how to build a greenhouse for under $200.00 like we did.

The flip side of living here is that vegetables seem to grow a lot faster here than they did down on the BC Coast.

Even though we start later than a lot of other gardeners, most of our late maturing vegetables can still be harvested before the end of September.

 

My Seed Starting Schedule

 

Create your own zone specific seed starting calendar. Know when to seed and when to harvest. #garden #gardeningideas #seed #seedschedule

 

 

Not long after we moved here in 2006, I sat down with all my seed packages and figured out a seed starting schedule.

This is specific for my area (Zone 3 Canada) and I use a transplant date of June 1 (the date by which I can actually move the seedlings into my Garden).

Plants like peppers and tomatoes can go into the greenhouse usually by the end of the first week of June. Overnight temperatures here can be a killer, even when plants are under cover!

When I wrote this up, I couldn’t find a plant chart anywhere with my Garden Zone. Use my seed starting schedule and make it your own.

Vary the dates according to your gardening zone. Remember to check your elevation and change the dates accordingly.

If you are at a higher elevation, you may need to stretch the dates out another week.

 

 

create a personalized seed starting schedule for your garden.

 

The Headings for my personalized seed starting schedule:

I’ve got the Indoor Start Date, the Days to Maturity and the Dates of Maturity, using the June 1 transplanting date.

I also have a column named Direct Seed.

This is for vegetables that I can just direct seed right into the garden and don’t need to bother starting in the house.

You may think that is an unnecessary column, but it helps me when it comes to seed ordering time.

I can look at the vegetables that fall into that category, check them against my supply on hand and figure out easily if I need to buy more seed.

 

 

A garden specific seed starting schedule for your garden.

 

See the numbers in parentheses after the Vegetable type?

Those were the number of seed packages that I had on hand the year I made up the list, so just ignore them.

As you can see by looking down the Indoor Start Date, the earliest date to start anything is March 26!

I will start with seeding Cabbages and Peppers and won’t even move on to seeding any Tomatoes until mid-April!

This seed starting schedule helps me keep on track and not plant too early (or too late).

These dates may seem very late to you, but this is what works here for us at 2850 feet elevation and a Zone 3 garden.

 

 

Personalized seed starting schedule for YOUR garden!

 

The Downside of Starting Seeds Too Early:

If you live in the Cariboo (or northern US), don’t start your seeds too early. It is an easy mistake to make!

Make a specific seed starting schedule for your own garden and then follow it.

It is heartbreaking to end up with very leggy vegetable seedings. They tend to break very easily when you have to move them from the house out to the garden.

You can transplant them into larger containers if you need to. Most plants like growing root bound and then being transplanted into extra room to put on more growth.

We usually start so many seeds indoors I simply don’t have room to keep that many big pots in the house.

 

 

Your garden specific personalized seed starting schedule makes sowing seeds easy.

 

Tomatoes are always transplanted, at least once but sometimes twice. They really benefit from being moved up into a larger pot.

I try to start in small containers and then transplant them as they grow. It is more work for me, but the plants respond better by getting root bound first and then transplanted.

Here’s how to transplant tomatoes.

 

Personalized seeding schedule for your garden.

 

I start a lot of my seeds under lights down in our basement and then move them up to my living room when they get large enough to not need the lights.

This helps make room for even more seedlings downstairs.

If the weather is warm enough, I then move them out to the greenhouse, where I can also start other seeds.

Our greenhouse is unheated and so it depends on how cool the nights are, as to whether I can move and start seedlings out there.

 

Filed Under: Grow Your Own Vegetables, Starting Seeds Tagged With: Grow Vegetables, seed starting

5 Reasons to Plant a Vegetable Garden

By Annie

There are plenty of benefits that come from growing your own food. If you haven’t yet had a homegrown meal straight from the garden, you really don’t know what you have been missing. Here are my Top 5 reasons we grow our own food.


 

A Spring Daily Harvest

 

5 Reasons to Grow your own Food

 

1. Growing your own food can save you a LOT of money

For the price of some seeds, a shovel, rake and a hoe, you can literally grow hundreds of dollars of food. You will be amazed at how much food you can grow from $20 of seeds!

Spend $5 of that on some seed potatoes and the other $15 on the vegetables your family likes to eat. Peas, beans, carrots, broccoli – all of these can be harvested and eaten, or some frozen or canned.

Imagine how much money you could save over the year.

Want to read about how we plan our vegetable garden every year?

 

A Harvest of Fresh Green Beans

 

2. Improve your health by eating organically

It’s a fact that home grown good is better for your health. Don’t spray chemicals on it and you’ll be eating the healthiest organic food that you could ever find.

Your immune system will get a huge boost and you’ll reduce your chances of getting diabetes or some types of cancer.

And let’s not forget that working in the garden an hour a day will improve your health and fitness level too.

You can get rid of your gym membership and save even more money.

 

Homegrown Dinner

 

3. Homegrown food tastes so much better – it’s fresher and healthier

Seriously, if you have never had a meal where every single thing on your plate was totally homegrown, you don’t know what you are missing.

Incredible, healthy, delicious – the vegetables are amazing, and words can’t do justice to a homegrown ham dinner.

Everything on the plate above was raised by us here at home. We raise pigs on pasture all season long and then fill our freezer in late Fall.

 

Gardening can be a family affair

 

4. Make Gardening Family time

Encourage your family to work alongside each other in the garden. Children love digging in the dirt and even teenagers will enjoy pulling fresh carrots right out of the ground.

Let the kids help and work off some of their energy digging and weed pulling. Husbands will usually mow the lawn, even if they don’t want to!

Chickens Working the Compost Pile

 

5. Growing your own food is good for the environment

Less fuel wasted going to the grocery store is one bonus. What’s easier and quicker than harvesting tonight’s dinner right from your backyard?

Yet another boost to your personal environment is all the great compost you can make!

Any vegetable waste including stems and roots can be thrown onto a compost pile. Add some dirt every once in a while, turn the pile every few weeks and voila.

Making your own compost is a great money saver too. If you have to buy bags of compost at the garden center, the costs are going to add up quickly.

Get a compost pile started as soon as you can. Next year you’ll be adding wonderful new compost soil to your gardens. We also sow Buckwheat in our veggie gardens after the harvest. The Buckwheat is a fantastic cover crop and green manure.

When it comes to growing your own food there is no way that you can go wrong. So what are you waiting for?

 

Filed Under: Grow Your Own Fruit, Grow Your Own Vegetables

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