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How to Make Rhubarb Wine

By Annie

If you’ve got an abundance of Rhubarb, why not get out your wine making equipment? Here’s how to make Rhubarb Wine.

A glass of Rhubarb wine sits on a table outside
You’ll love this rustic homemade rhubarb wine!

If you grow a lot of rhubarb, consider making some delicious wine with some of your harvest. It’s tasty and easy to make – here’s a foolproof rhubarb wine recipe.

The middle of June is the ideal time to pick the bulk of your Rhubarb if you live in the North. Want to learn how to grow Rhubarb?

A rhubarb plant growing in the garden
This is what rhubarb looks like growing in the garden.

When you pick them, you can either twist the stalk (close to the ground) to snap it off. You are always better to snap them off instead of using a knife to cut them.

Be sure to leave several of the smaller ones on the plant. This way, your Rhubarb plant will continue to grow.

How to Make Rhubarb Wine

Ready to make wine? All you need are a few simple ingredients! Here are the instructions.

When your Rhubarb is ready to be picked, harvest it.

Rhubarb sits in a scale being weighed.
It’s best to keep close measurements during this process so you can easily recreate it once you get everything in the proportions you like best!

Using a kitchen scale, weigh the stalks – you will need 5 pounds rhubarb for every 1 gallon batch of wine (which is about 4.5 litres). This year we ended up with 37 pounds of Rhubarb from those 5 plants!

Clean out a primary fermenter and snap all the stalks many times. You don’t need to cleanly break each stalk into piece.

Just give them a quick snap so the rhubarb is exposed. The more times you can snap each stalk, the better as more surface area is exposed. A rolling pin is a good tool to expose the stalks.

A primary fermenter filled with rhubarb and water.
The rhubarb goes through primary fermentation before anything else.

Snap the stalks into the primary container and pour cold water over to cover them. Now let it sit 3 days and give it a stir every day.

After 3 days, scoop out the rhubarb and leave the water behind. Do NOT mash the rhubarb, as this can lead to a cloudy wine.

Rhubarb juice after being strained from the stalks.
You want to expose the insides of the rhubarb without mashing it, as this can lead to wine that’s cloudy.

 Hold the Rhubarb above the liquid for a minute to let most of the excess liquid drip back into the primary.

Give it a light squeeze to get more juice out but don’t squeeze it too hard. If you have backyard chickens or pigs, they will love this leftover Rhubarb.

Sugar being weighed before adding to Rhubarb wine.
Sugar is necessary for the yeast to produce alcohol! This is where the alcohol content of wine comes from.

Sugar for Home Made Wine

According to the recipe, I had to add 3 lbs of sugar for every 1 gallon (4.5 liters) of liquid. I stirred the sugar really well to get it dissolved.

You may find it easier to make a sugar syrup on the stove as the sugar will completely dissolve before adding to the fermenter. You can also use honey to sweeten wine, but you may need to use a little more than you would sugar.

Something to consider is that rhubarb doesn’t have the natural tannins like grapes do, so you may find it beneficial to add additional ingredients like some pectic enzyme or a tsp yeast nutrient or more. These ingredients can be found online at various homebrewing sources or at your local wine supply store.

This is because grape juice has a more natural balance of things like sugar, water, wild yeast, tannins, and other components that make wine making simple and more hands off. You may have to put in a little more thought with something like rhubarb wine.

For additional flavor, consider adding things like raisins (which can be a good yeast nutrient substitute), lemon rinds, ginger root, or brewed black tea (a good source of tannin powder).

 

Making Rhubarb Wine at Home – Testing Specific Gravity

After you add the sugar, test the specific gravity with the hydrometer. You are looking for hydrometer readings of 10 – 12%.

If it is closer to 10% you may want to add some more sugar. Next add a few Campden tablets (optional).

Rhubarb juice before yeast is added.
I love the color of rhubarb juice.

Pour this liquid into the primary fermenter. Look at the pretty pink!

Adding Yeast when Making Wine

Now, sprinkle 1 packet of wine yeast over the top of the liquid; don’t stir it in, just leave it sitting on top of the liquid in the jug.

Rhubarb wine fermenting in the primary container.
The yeast gets to work eating up sugar and producing alcohol.

 It’s supposed to start foaming, which means the wine is working. It will be foaming for a couple of days and then it will stop.

When it stops, rack it down from the primary fermenter into a carboy or demijohn.

Make sure you don’t let the siphon tube sit at the bottom – you want to leave the musty sediment and pulp behind.

Rack it down again into a clean carboy in a few weeks, then let it sit for 6 months to go through secondary fermentation till it can be bottled. When it comes time to bottle, you’ll want to watch airlocks for bubbles and then siphon into sterilized bottles.

Rhubarb wine being racked down into a carboy.
Here’s how we siphon wine between carboys.

Making Rhubarb Wine at Home – Racking

Whenever you finish racking wine, lift the carboy up onto a table or counter right away. It needs to sit someplace undisturbed. Place it in a large bucket out of the way to keep it safe if that will help.

This way, the sediment will begin to fall to the bottom. That’s exactly what you want. You want your carboy up high, so you don’t have to move it up when it’s time to repeat this process.

A carboy filled with Rhubarb wine.
Be sure you don’t bring any of the residual sediment along when you transfer your wine.

Every time you move the carboy, the sediment at the bottom of the mixture will start to move throughout the liquid again. You want it to settle so the sediment goes down to the bottom again.

Bottling Rhubarb Wine

Before you bottle it, rack it down one last time into another clean carboy. Then, let it sit for another four or five days so any sediment left has a chance to fall to the bottom.

You always want to make sure to leave all the sediment behind. If in doubt, rack it down again carefully.

When it comes to making wine, you simply cannot rack it too many times. Some people will rack the wine four or five times before they bottle.

What you are trying to do is make sure you have no sediment left at the bottom of the container, before racking into the individual bottles.

Be sure your siphon hose does NOT go all the way to the bottom of the carboy. We use a clothespin to help hold the hose at the level we want. If all else fails, you can also strain the wine using a straining bag.

Finished jugs full of pretty Rhubarb wine.
Rhubarb produces a wine that’s beautifully pink!

The finished result – a beautiful pink colour and sweet flavor. It will taste great in a few months. Squirrel some away so you can try a bottle from this batch next year!

Cap them with corks, using a corker and then lay them on their side. Or use wine bottles with screw-on lids. Cheers! Enjoy your Rhubarb Wine!

 

More Homemade Wine Recipes

  • More Wine Recipes from your Garden
  • Ever made Dandelion Wine at Home?
  • How about trying Carrot Wine?
  • Try this delicious Saskatoon Raspberry wine.
  • Here’s a great resource for making Berry Wine!
Rhubarb wine in two glasses on a table
Once you learn how to make your own wine, you won’t be able to get enough!

 

Filed Under: Grow Your Own Fruit, Homemade Wine Recipes, How To

How To Start a Homestead

By Annie

Have you been used to buying your groceries at the supermarkets? Never raised animals or had a garden?

Are you  trying to figure out how to get started on the path to providing for your family? Have you thought about starting a homestead?

It can certainly feel overwhelming just to get started. So think about getting started, but doing it on a small level.

Trying to do too much too quickly can be a recipe for burnout and frustration.

Here’s what we did when we first move here in 2006. Learn from our mistakes and keep an open mind. And have fun – never forget to have fun!

 

sel sufficiency, homesteading, country

 

How to Set up a Homestead

 

Starting small will not only get you on the path to providing for your family, but it will teach you a lot. As your confidence grows and time goes by, you can implement another activity on your homestead (or in your backyard).

Let’s start with a garden.

 

Planting a Garden

 

 

 

What kind of vegetable seems to on your family’s plates the most often? That’s a good one to plant this year.

For us it is potatoes. So, it’s important for us to be sure to grow lots of potatoes this year.

The bonus with potatoes is you can feed them off to animals, once you are sure you have enough to store for winter eating for your family.

Other veggies we eat a lot of include green beans (so 2 double rows get planted), beets (3 or 4 rows) peas (so plant these up the fence that runs around the garden perimeter.

 

 

If you don’t have much experience with veggie gardening, it will take a few years before you can closely figure out how much to plant, in order to put enough by so there is food for your family over the winter.

Just get a start this year, and this fall you can count up your jars of canned beans, then figure out if you need to grow more next year.

Take a look at our 5 Easiest Vegetables to Grow and just start small!

Keep notes and start a garden journal to record this kind of information.

Next year, when it comes to ordering seed, you’ll have a good idea of how much seed you will need.

 

Raising Chickens

Looking to add animals into the mix? As far as I am concerned, #1 are chickens. Wonderful, you just feed them and water them – every day (almost) they will pay you back. We started with 4 hens, the next year we were up to 15.

EVERY time you have an extra dozen, (after you have put a couple dozen away for your family) sell the eggs. Keep the egg money in a separate jar. Once you get an egg customer, call them each week and see if they are in need of another dozen.

Pay for your chicken feed OUT of the jar. Find another customer (or as it often seems to happen, your one customer will find you the next one)….rinse and repeat.

 

 

 

Over time, you will have enough money in your jar to pay for their feed and still more money in the jar.

Got an extra $15 in there? Next time you are at the feed store, pick up a couple of T-posts or pick up a roll of chicken wire.

I am a big fan of T-posts and chicken wire. Temporary fencing can be set up wherever you need it and for however long you need it.

Put the chickens in there in the afternoon, and let them find their own food of bugs and grass.

Don’t let them scratch right down to the ground. Before that happens, pull out the T-posts and set your fencing up somewhere else that needs a good grazing.

Setting up fencing against existing buildings or fence posts reduces the number of T-posts you need.

Chickens like to work! Bored chickens get unhealthy and start picking on each other, just to give themselves something to do.

Harness that energy and put it into something that will help you. Chickens allowed to free range and graze will lower the feed bill, and that’s what you want.

Meanwhile, your family is enjoying the eggs, extras can be sold, and the money saved up for feed and the “next thing on the farm list”.

 

raising chickens, hens, layers

 

 

If you have access to fresh manure, set up temporary fencing around the manure pile, and let the girls in.

Within days they will have eaten all the small seeds they find and any bits of leftover grain.

They’ll also scratch and fluff up that manure pile for you. Let Them do the work! Then move the fencing.

Once the manure has sat for a month or two, you can wheel it over to use on your veggie garden.

 

Raising Chicks for Meat

Meanwhile, you’re saving your egg money in the jar. Over time, say you end up with an extra $50 in there (after the feed, that you are now able to buy in either bulk or buy multiple bags so you have them on hand).

An extra $50 will buy you some meat birds (in season of course). Here in BC, $50 will probably get you 20 birds, by the time you take shipping into consideration.

 

 

 

How many meat birds can your family eat? Averaging about say 5.5 lbs, 20 chickens will enable your family to have chicken every 2 1/2 weeks or so.

It’s possible to get 4 meals off a chicken (including the soup at the end). See how all this is adding up over time?

 

 

 

 

Yes, the first year you will have to put out money for meat bird feed, however, time it right for your season.

Raise the birds when you hardly have to supplement their heat after the first 2 weeks.

During the spring, summer and fall, if you let your laying hens free range of graze in temporary coops, you won’t be spending as much money on their feed.

Use the money instead to buy feed for the meat birds (20% protein). Keep selling eggs – rinse and repeat.

Another easy way to offset your laying hen’s feed bill (while collecting their eggs) is to feed them veggies and greens from the garden during the growing season.

You can feed greens to meat birds too, but you’ll always have to buy them their special feed.

Meat birds are bred to gain weight FAST, and they just won’t do it living off of garden greens.

Read how we manage to raise 8 pound meat birds in just 8 weeks.

Eight weeks later, butcher your meat birds. Still have your one or two egg customers?

Do yourself a favour (and them) and give them one bird, all dressed out. Thank them for buying your eggs and hand over a chicken.

Let them know you’re going to do meat birds the following year. If they should want some, they can order some.

In addition, you’ve just been given a LOT of fantastic manure from those meat birds.

Let it compost, then add it to your veggie gardens – rinse and repeat.

 

 

 

 

Meanwhile, you’re making sure you spend any egg money on feed. If you have leftover money, keep buying T-posts or wire or veggie seeds.

Every time, put the money BACK into either your garden or your animal needs.

You will see, over time that you can add slowly to your homesteading – every little bit helps.

Concentrate first on what your family needs are, sell any excess.

 

 

 

Keeping Goats for Milk

Does your family drink a lot of milk? Think about saving towards a goat. You can supply milk and cheese for your family.

Goats like to eat brush and scrub, so if you have areas like this that you want to clear off for future pasture or gardens, put the goats in there.

You’ll need stronger fencing tho than T-posts, you know what they say about goats!

If you have small trees that need to be spaced, you can cut the trees down and use them for fence rails.

You can also take the branches off and use them for bean or pea supports in your veggie garden.

The idea is to spend as little as possible in the beginning. Over time, keep plowing your monies back into your barnyard and gardens.

Feed ANY weeds you pull to your laying hens. When you finish harvesting parts of your veggie garden, move the T-posts in to section off part of the garden, then put some hens in there.

They’ll work your soil, eat the bugs, and add manure all at the same time. Better for you that They do the work.

When you cut the grass, give the clippings to both the laying hens and the meat birds.

If you have excess, start putting it down between the veggie garden rows to keep the weeds down. It will also add to improving your garden soil.

 

 

 

 

One more thought – for goodness sake, don’t underprice your eggs!

That is the Worst thing you can do – any customers that are wanting to buy farm fresh eggs or veggies are willing to pay at Least what the supermarket charges.

It should be more, because of your attention to growing as naturally as possible. People are willing to pay a premium for this.

Don’t overcharge, but jeez, don’t undercharge. That’s totally shooting yourself in the foot, plus you are messing up any other farmer’s plans to try to recoup their original costs.

Note I’m not including hay in the above, the way we work here, we do not overwinter any animals except for laying hens.

We may get a beef cow in the future, once we start rejuvenating our pastures and putting aside our own hay to feed them over winter.

You’ll need to have some hay or straw or something on hand for on the floor of your chicken coop.

No reason you can’t grow the grass long, then cut it down and use that.

Or straw, leaves or anything else you can think of that is no cost. Your hens will not mind!

 

 

 

 

Begin to think of your farm or backyard as a cycle. Everything has a season and as much as possible needs to be returned to the land to increase soil fertility.

Put things in (cover crops, green manure, composted manure) and take things out (the meat, eggs, vegetables).

 

chickens, pigs, goats and a garden in the country

 

Focus on improving your soil and the health of your family as cheaply as possible.

I’m willing to wager that in the next couple of years, you will be eating a LOT healthier for a lot less money.

Start small, but get started! You can do it!

Your family will eat healthier, eat fresher, you’ll save money and hopefully in a year or two, all your animals will be self-sustaining.

Think about how you can get started on the path to providing for your family.

Filed Under: How To, How to Get Started, Raising Chickens, Raising Meat Birds, Raising Pigs Tagged With: chickens, chicks, Grow Vegetables, hens, How To:, laying hens, Potatoes, Raising Meat Birds, self sufficiency

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